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The threat of dams and gold mines here has been put off time and again because Chileans, especially the owners of profitable ecotourism companies, have fought back. But on foot, this country was a vast, impenetrable thicket, what Darwin called "a green desert," a trackless misery to men without Gore-Tex. The Ojedas hated the hydro plan. When we finally got out of the wind, Quinto's byfoot shack felt like a mansion. A brief wind shift—the faint odor of sulfur—knocked me to my senses.
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Around lunchtime we stumbled upon the lonely old huaso, or cowboy.
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There is a reason ancient people worshipped mountains.
The fight wasn't so clear-cut, Garrido told me. Winter in here Chile, one of the southernmost places on earth.
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